Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
